Bond Pattern: Hooded Jacket

This pattern was created using KNITWARE DESIGN Sweaters Version 1.50
(The software was designed and written by Janet Tombu – e-mail her at jt@knitware.ca.)

Round neck Regular length Cardigan Sweater with Drop shoulder Full length sleeves and Shaped Hood.

Size 30 (36, 46) inches

YARN DESCRIPTION:

Wendy Sarto (80% Wool, 20% Bri-Nylon) or similar chunky weight yarn (see GAUGE DATA); approx. 475g (600g, 750g) [17oz (22oz, 27oz)]

GAUGE DATA:

Body knitted by Bond on keyplate 4
Ribbing knitted by Hand on 4 mm needles
Gauge (stocking st over 4 in = 10 cm): 16.0 st by 20.0 rows

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (ins):

Chest: 32.2 (38.4, 48.9) … with Moderate fit.
Ribbing width: 30.2 (34.3, 44.6)
Front neck width: 2.8 (3.0, 3.5)
Armhole: 15.2 (17.4, 19.7)
Front neck depth: 2.5 (3.2, 3.7)
Body length: 18.8 (22.8, 24.5)
Top neck width: 5.5 (6.0, 7.1)
Sleeve bottom: 8.0 (8.1, 9.1) include ribbing: 2.0 (2.5, 3.0)
Hood length: 11.2 (11.5, 11.9)
Ribbing width: 7.2 (7.3, 8.2)
Hood depth: 7.8 (8.0, 8.3)
Sleeve length: 16.0 (18.3, 19.0) include ribbing: 1.5 (2.0, 2.5)

NOTE: At most, 68 (80, 100) needles are required to knit the body of this garment; but the collar/hood needs 110 (118, 126) needles.

BACK:

1. Cast on 68 (80, 100) sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 4. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 46 (58, 58) rows.
3. Mark this row at both ends for armhole.
4. Knit 38 (44, 50) more rows. Total 84 (102, 108) rows.
5. Back neck. Cast off center 22 (24, 30) sts. 23 (28, 35) sts each side. Knit 6 rows with WY.

FRONT: Cardigan right side worked first.

1. Cast on 35 (41, 51) sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 4. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 46 (58, 58) rows. COR.
3. Armhole. Mark this row at right end for armhole. Work 25 (28, 30) rows (71 (86, 88) rows total).
4. Shape neck. COL. Cast off first 7 (7, 8) sts (on LHS). Dec 1 st at neck edge (left end) every row 5 (6, 8) times, until 23 (28, 35) sts remain. Knit 7 (10, 12) rows even. Total 84 (102, 108) rows.
5. Cut yarn, leaving a long end (to graft shoulders with). Knit 6 rows WY. Remove sts from machine.
6. Left cardigan front. Work as for right side, reversing shapings.

BACK RIBBING: by hand on size 4 mm needles.

1. Pick up 68 (80, 100) sts. Dec to 64 (72, 92) by: K8 (4, 7), K2tog, *[K15 (8, 10) K2tog]* 3 (7, 7) times K7 (4, 7)
2. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.0 (2.5, 3.0) ins [approx 12 (16, 18) rows]. Cast off loosely in ribbing.

FRONT RIBBINGS: by hand on size 4 mm needles.

1. Pick up 35 (41, 51) sts. Dec to 33 (37, 47) by: K8 (5, 7), K2tog, *[K15 (8, 10) K2tog]* 1 (3, 3) times K8 (4, 6)
2. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.0 (2.5, 3.0) ins [approx 12 (15, 18)rows]. Cast off loosely in ribbing.

SHOULDER SEAMS:

Graft shoulder seam(s) on 23 (28, 35) sts.

SLEEVES:

1. Sleeve is grafted onto the body of the sweater, and worked down to the ribbing. Hang side edge of body between armhole markers on 60 (68, 78)needles, wrong side of work facing. Push sts back against the bed and hang hem as usual.
2. Push needles to FWP, place COR with keyplate 4 and thread up MY.
3. Knit first row very carefully. If very tight, or bulky yarn, you may want to knit the first row by hand. Knit 13 (11, 15) more rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every following 4th (4th, 3rd) row 12 (15, 18) times, until 34 (36, 40) sts remain.
4. Knit 12 (10, 14) more rows without decreases. Total 74 (82, 84) rows.
5. Cut main yarn. Knit 6 rows WY. Remove sts from machine.

SLEEVE RIBBING: by hand on size 4 mm needles.

1. Pick up 34 (36, 40) sts. Dec to 30 (31, 34) by: K4 (3, 4), K2tog, *[K6 (5, 4) K2tog]* 3 (4, 5) times K4 (3, 4)
2. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 1.5 (2.0, 2.5) ins [approx 10 (12, 16) rows]. Cast off loosely in ribbing.

SHAPED HOOD:

1. Cast on 110 (118, 126) sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 3. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Folded front band. Work even for 10 rows, with lace holes near the ends of row 2 for drawstring. To complete the band, graft the cast-on sts to the last row worked. Reset the row counter to 0.
3. Change to keyplate 4 and knit 3 (5, 4) rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every following 3rd (2nd, 2nd) row 9 (12, 14) times, until 90 (92, 96) sts remain. Knit a further 3 (6, 5) rows even [total 34 (36, 38) rows], excluding front band.
4. Cast off 36 (36, 35) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Work even on remaining 18 (20, 26) sts for 44 rows, total 80 (82, 84) rows excluding front band. Cast off loosely.

BUTTON BAND:

1. Cast on 7 sts on size 4 mm needles. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 16.0 (19.7, 20.6) ins.
2. Check this length is sufficient, when slightly stretched, to go up cardigan front, from bottom of front ribbing, to top of collar band. Rib more if necessary.
3. Cast off. Sew button band to left front for girls/women, right front for boys/men.
4. Mark positions for 7 (7, 6) buttons, the first one 0.5 ins above the band bottom, the last one 0.5 ins below the band top. The rest should be evenly spaced between these two, approximately 2.5 (31, 3.9) ins apart.

BUTTONHOLE BAND:

1. Work buttonhole band as for button band, working buttonholes at the marked postions as follows. With the right side of work facing, rib 3 st, cast off next 1 st, rib to end. Next row. Rib 3 st, cast on 1 st over cast off st(s), rib to end.
2. Sew buttons at marked positions on the button band.
3. Sew buttonhole band to cardigan front, being careful to align buttonholes with buttons.

FINISHING:

1. Sew side and sleeve seams using invisible seam. Sew back seam(s) of hood. Sew bottom of hood to neckline, easing to fit. Thread a drawstring if required.
The drawstring may be made using the Magicord machine and finished with a wooden bead each end if desired.
2. Sew in all loose ends.

NOTES:

1. I personally hate ribbing button(hole) bands, so instead I knitted them on the Bond as folded double bands, as shown for the hood. I sewn them to the main garment afterwards. This technique worked well.

(c) 1997 Steph Thornton, all rights reserved. Permission for electronic duplication of this pattern is granted with the limitation that this entire notice remain intact. This pattern may not be reproduced in hard copy (with the exception of personal use), or for profit without my written permission. Contact: steph@stephthornton.co.uk