From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca)
Subject: Re: Pattern for Shawl collared sweater.
Unisex shawl-collared pullover:-
Materials:- 7 skeins light wool - 1 skein dark - I used verigated or heather toned.
Yardage 175 yards or 160 meters.
Needles - Knitting - 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm
Keyplate - # 2 - ribbing # 3 main sweater
Tension:- 4 stitches and 6 rows -
Sizes 38 - 40 - 42 - 44 - 46 - 48 - finished
Bring forward 84-88-92-96-100 needles
Using waste yarn cast on and knit 6 rows.
Change to main colour yarn.
Using Keyplate # 2 or Needles 3.5 - and contrasting colour Knit 20 rows.
Convert to rib.
Using Keyplate # 3 or Needles 4.5 - change to main colour
Row Counter - 000
Knit 84 - 86 - 88 - 90 - 92 rows ( adjust to personal length here )
Row Counter - 084 - 086 - 090 - 092 - 094
Cast off 4 stitches beginning of next two rows - armhole shaping
Row Counter - 086 - 088 - 092 - 094 - 096 - 098
Cast off one stitch each side every other row (5) times.
Row Counter - 096 - 098 - 102 - 104 - 106
Knit straight to
Row Counter - 144 - 146- 148 - 150 - 152
Cast off (5) stitches each side next (8) rows.
Row Counter - 152 - 154 - 156 - 158 - 160
Should now have - 26- 30- 34 - 38 - 42 46 stitches, place these on waste yarn for neckline.
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Front:- Work as for back to armhole shaping.
Row Counter - 086- 088 - 092 - 094 - 096 - 098
Place centre (4) stitches on holder - remove - right or left hand side of knitting to waste yarn and remove from needle bed - This will be put back on later to be kniited up.
Knitting on one side at a time repeat as for Back - rehang stitches from waste yarn and repeat.
Front is now completed. ( Except for Shawl collar )
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Sleeves:-
Using Keyplate # 3
Bring forward:- 38 - 40 - 42 - 44 - 46 needles.
Using waste yarn cast on and knit 6 rows.
Using Contrasting colour knit 20 rows - convert to rib.
Using 3.5 needles rib for 20 rows.
Using Keyplate # 3 or Needles 4.5 Change to main colour.
Row Counter 000
Increase one stitch each side of sleeve every 5th and 6th row to ( 68 - 72 - 76 - 78 - 80 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve measures desired length or generic - 18" - 45cm
Row Counter - 108 generic.
Row Counter should now be at generic or adjusted number for your (_____).
Cast off 4 stitches beginning of next (2) rows.
Row Counter - 110 - generic.
Cast off 2 stitches beginning of next (10) rows.
Row Counter - 120 - generic.
Cast off (1) stitch beginning of next ( 12 ) rows.
Row Counter - 132 generic.
Cast off (2) stitches beginnng of next (2) rows.
Row Counter - 134 generic.
Cast off (3) stitches beginning of next (2) rows.
Row Counter - 136 generic.
Cast off (4) stitches beginning of next (2) rows.
Row Counter - 138 generic.
Cast off remaing - 10 - 14 - 16 - 18 - 20 stitches.
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Collar:-
Using Keyplate # 3 or Needles 4.5 mm
Bring forward:- 22 - 24 - 26 - 28 - 30 needles.
Cast on with waste yarn and Knit 6 rows.
Change to Contrastng Colour.
Place centre needle ("O") in non working position, transfer stitch to left or right side. There will now be one needle that will ladder all the way through the knitting. This is correct.
Knit to Row Counter - 200 -210 - 220 - 240 - 260 - You are knitting extra here to allow for sewing the shawl collar the the neck edge without stretching it. It is much easier to add more stitches now than to try and find them later, or to stretch the garment.
Remove from machine on waste yarn.
Fold collar in half - wrong sides together, or right sides together,your choice depending on the effect that the yarn is giving. Join to the centre stitches by hand. Sew carefully not stretching from centre to around neck and down again and crossright over left for female or left over right for male and secure in the back. This collar will gently roll to the back.
In my handknitted version. I used the 4.5 mm needle and garter stitch and picked up the stitches in the front and seamed as I went to add dimension to the garment.
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Wanted to share this one with all, Jim who wanted a shaped shoulder and some definition in design. I have knit this one in lovely multi coloured wools, and used a dark black shawl collar and a grey black tweed type wool. The sweater is very stunning with grey pants for men and off white pants or skirt for the ladies.
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Adaptions for Lifestyle Challenges:-
Please read all of this first before proceeding.
When working the back, you would only cast on one half of the stitches and refer to one half of the pattern.
In other words you would be treating the back as left back and right back.
Follow the directions as given in the main sweater pattern.
When back is completed and before adding the shawl collar:-
With right side of work facing pick up and rehang eveery other stitch on needles. Make sure that the latches are open. Hang Weighted hem. Work the first row very slowly.
Knit 5 rows Keyplate # 3 - Knit (l) row Keyplate # 2 - Knit (5) rows Keyplate # 3.
Rehang the just knitted piece onto the frame with wrong sides together. Knit slowly across and cast off as you would seam as you go.
What you have just done is created a plain, not ribbed, as this will affect how the person feels when wearing the garment. We do not need the extra bulk.
Repeat on Other Side.
Add at least a 6" strip of long velcro adhesive in three different spots - top - middle - bottom close to ribbing.
When Knitting the shawl collar, you will only knit one half at a time and include this in the velcro band. Do not include this shawl collar in the knit facing as it will show that the person wearing the garment is challenged. just add a few squares of velcro to the centre back seam of the collar and it will look natural.
This same technique can be used for handknitting, by picking up every other stitch on circular needles - only because they are longer, knit five rows, purl one row, knit five rows, cast off and loosely stitch to picked up edge.
When doing the shawl collar with the 4.5 needles and garter stitch instead of stocking stitch ( Garter stitch - knit every row ) Stocking Stitch ( knit one row - purl one row ).
Just Linda!
patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda )
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm
http://www.keyway.net/crafts/lbpats.htm
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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 9th November 1999.