Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 08:38:40 -0700
From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca)
Subject: [BOND] Sock Pattern - Heel-less
I have not knit this, but based on some of the spiral and plain knit
socks that I have done, this is how I would do this:-
1 - 100 gram ball of worsted weight yarn and 1 - 50 gram ball of coloured
worsted weight yarn.
Using worsted weight wool and keyplate # 3
Cast on 50 stitches.
Knit for 60 rows, laddering up in knit 4 purl one after each ten rows.
At this point I would change to just plain knit as the heel would be very
uncomfortable if not:-
Knit a further 30 rows, keeping the the front stitches in knit 4 purl one
and the stitches in the back ( 25 of them ) in plain knit for a total of 30
rows). You may use colour here if you like but remember the 25 stitches
would be one colour the rest would be the main colour.
Now working in full pattern and changing back to main colour wool, knit the
25 stitches in plain knit and the rest in knit 4 purl one.
When you have reached the desired length or in my case the 26 more rows.,
Change to coloured wool and finish fashioning the foot as such:-
decrease one stitch each side full fashioned until 18 stitches remain.
Remove onto waste yarn and graft the toes, seam up back seam.
I have not knit this pattern, so it would be interesting to see it done up.
Friends
Linda
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 07:30:57 -0700
From: bahrens@pacbell.net
Subject: [BOND] sock pattern - latest revisions
Ankle Socks for the Whole Family by Gina B. Ahrens
Sizes:
Infant- fits birth to shoes size 2 (finished foot length 3 1/2 inches)
Childrens- Small fits shoes size 2-4
(finished foot length 4 1/2 inches)
Medium fits shoes size 4-6
(finished foot length 5 1/2 inches)
Large fits shoes size 6-10
(finished foot length 6 1/2 inches)
Extra Large fits shoe size 10+
(finished foot length 7 1/2 inches)
Adult-
Small finished foot length 9 1/2 inches
Medium finished foot length 10 inches
Large finished foot length 11 inches
Extra Large finished foot length 12 inches
Materials-
1 5 ounce skein worsted weight yarn
(I used Merry Pop N’ Christmas Yarn)
Gauge: 16 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches with keyplate # dot 3
Instructions:
Ankle- Using a closed edge cast on CO 21, 25, 29, 33 35, 37, 40, 42, 46 sts
....COR....K 8,8,10,10,12,12,14,14,14 R....Drop and lach up every other
row to from a K1 P1 rib........K 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 14,
16, 18, 18 R...COR
Heel-Push all needles to LHS of 0 up to HP....Push 1 needle on carriage
side to HP.....K 1 R...COL....Push 1 needle on carraige side to HP...K 1
R....COR....Repeat this until only 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8 needles remain in
WP....Reverse the shaping by pushing 1 needle on the opposite side of
the caraige to FWP on each row until all needles on the RHS of 0 are in
WP...COR...( note it is extremely helpful to use claw weights when
shaping the heels and toes )....Push needles on LHS back to FWP...K 1 R
slowly....Make sure all latches are open before you do this or you will
drop stitches
Foot-K 5, 8, 16, 18, 21, 25, 29, 32, 36 R
Toe- Repeat as for heel...Cast off onto WY.....
Finishing-Bring the sts with the WY attached together and graft the MY
sts together....Sew the side seam....
Second Sock-Be sure to reverse the shaping for the toe and heel by using
the LHS sts to form them instead of the RHS....
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 12:35:50 -0800
From: "M-L Pfenning" (mlpfenn@silk.net)
Subject: [BOND] Whoops.......Mom's Socks
My Mom's House Socks
Visualize a pair of knee hi socks that are put on like a pair of tall boots, and they are open at the front....from the toes to the top of the sock. There are eyelets on either side of the opening, and you lace these up with yarn laces, (as you would lace a pair of shoes); tighten, and tie..............viola you have these socks staying on. Materials: 2 x 50 gr ball of main color 1 x 50 gr ball of lighter color - (A) 1 x 50 gr ball of darker color - (B) Tension: 17 sts. and 22 rows to 10 cm. - 4 inch sq. using Keyplate #3. Sizing: These socks are extremely adaptable to fit any size. This pattern fits a size 4 shoe wearer. A = number of rows; rows are going around the leg B = number of stitches; stitches are running the length of the sock. Both socks are knitted in the identical manner, toe to knee, lengthwise on the knitting machine. Abbreviations: K = knit St = stitches COR = carriage on right COL = carriage on left Instructions: Leaving at least one machine's length of yarn from the end of the ball, use color B and beginning with COR cast on 80 sts ending with COL. Work 2 rows. (COL after the 2nd row complete). With single transfer tool and starting from the left, leave the first two stitches as they are. Transfer the next st (the 3rd st), to the right on its adjacent st, (transferring the 3rd st onto the 4th st), to form a single eyelet st. Leave the next st (the 5th st) as it is. Repeat the procedure, (from the 3rd st etc.), until the end of the row. You will have formed 26 eyelets. Work 3 rows - COR. Change to color A. Work 4 rows (COR). Change to main color and work 37 rows (COL). Change to color A and work 4 rows (COL). Change to color B and work 3 rows (COR). (Repeat the above instruction for making the eyelets over the length of the knitting). After the eyelets are complete, work 3 rows ending with COL> Cast off with back stitch method from the stitches on the frame and also off the hem bar. Work in your loose ends of the different color yarns. Thread a length of Main color through on end of the piece of knitting (through one end of the rows), gather & fasten tightly to form toe. Ties: Cut 2 lengths of each color used. Each length should measure at least 7 times the length of your sock. Knot securely at one end. Get another person to help you Or find a way to attach one of the ends to make it un-movealbe. Twist the yarn lengths until very tight, knot the 2nd end. Trim the tufts/yarn ends, on each end, that both tufts/fringe are of equal length. Lace through the eyelets to form socks. These ties, could by crocheted with one length of each color & would be very effective. Also you could braid these ties instead of twisting. Happy Bonding....thank you to each and everyone for being so patient. M-L in the Okanagan mlpfenn@silk.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:20:21 -0700 From: leonardv@agcs.com (Valli Leonard-Barnes) Subject: [BOND] Side Seamed Sock OK, I am going to try to post some sock stuff tonight. First I will try to upload the entire instructions for the mini sock I use to teach machine knitting. Then I will tell you the formula for measuring feet and calculating the stitches and rows. The instructions will be good whether you are HK or MK. MINIATURE SOCK by AFLD83A@prodigy.com (MS ANDREA K HUNTER-SPEARMAN) Yarn : Bramwell Fine Four Ply Tension Dial: 6 Gauge: 8 s and 12 r per inch CAST ON: With waste yarn cast on EVERY OTHER NEEDLE over 24 needles. (L12-R12) (Carriage side will have 2 consecutive needles in work on the edge.) Knit 10 rows waste. RIBBING: Turn stitch size dial down three whole numbers. (MT- 3) Using main color yarn and lower stitch size knit 3 rows. (This is still EON.) Hang first row edge sinker loop on the side which has the 2 consecutive needles in work. Bring remaining needles into work. Still using MT- 3 knit 10 rows. One at a time drop the stitches which originally were the out of work needles. Reform with a latch tool by picking of the loop of the first row of main color, skip the next 2 loops and then latch up over the remaining loops to the top. Hang loop on needle. LEG: Raise stitch dial to main tension. (6) Knit 3 rows setting up fair isle pattern on the last row. Knit 3 rows fair isle. Knit 9 rows plain. HEEL: Set carriage to HOLD. Put half the needles to hold. (12 needles in hold. 12 needles in work.) These should ALL be on the side oposite the carriage. Over the remaining needles short row decrease one stitch each side every other row until only 6 needles are in work in this manner: Carriage on the right. 12 needles left of center in Hold. Carriage set to hold. Knit 1 row. (COL) On carriage side wrap last held needle by bringing yarn under that needle and over the rest of the held needles. On the side oposite the carriage bring a needle to hold. Knit 1 row. (COR) Wrap on carriage side; hold 1 more needle on opposite side. Continue knitting, wrapping, and holding until only 6 needles are in work. Carriage will be on the right. Knit across the 6 needles and wrap the last one on the left. Knit one more row to the right. Now begin short row increasing by returning one needle to work on the side oposite the carriage. Continue returning one needle per row to work always opposite carriage side. When 12 needles are in work you should be on the right again. Reset your carriage to knit all needles and knit 1 row across all 24 needles. SOLE AND INSTEP: Knit 12 rows plain across all stitches. TOE: This is knitted exactly as the heel. After shaping the toe knit one row across all the needles. Cut main yarn leaving a very long tail at least 4 times the length of the stitches. Knit with one full inch of waste knit over all the stitches. Remove from the machine. FINISHING TOE: Choose Kitchener stitch or flat seam: KITCHENER STITCH: Kitchener stitch the toe. This is easiest for beginners if they work from the inside. Fold the sock in half with the waste yarn at the top. The knit stitches will be inside. Fold waste yarn down inside so that you can see the first row of purl loops below the waste. When it is folded correctly it will look like 2 rows of purl stitches with waste down between them. We will refer to these 2 rows as sides and the space between them as the chasm. Thread the tail of main yarn into a tapestry needle. Locate the stitch attached to the tail. Bring the threaded needle up through that stitch aimed at the waste, cross the chasm and go into the purl stitch on the other side. Turn the needle around and pick up the next purl stitch on that same side, cross the chasm and go back into the first stitch on the first side. Your needle should always lay 90 degrees to the chasm. You will always pick up a new stitch, cross the chasm and go into a stitch already used. Then turn and pick up a new stitch on the same side, cross the chasm, and go into a used stitch. Think: new, across, old. New, across, old. When you are finished every loop should have been stitched into twice. Take care that you do not catch any waste yarn. Do not pull these stitches tight. You are actually duplicate stitching so you want the new loops you are forming to be just as evenly spaced as all the other purl loops in the sock. After all the loops are joined remove the waste yarn and admire the beautiful join. FLAT SEAM: For comfort the side seam must lay flat. Turn the sock right side out so that it looks like it will when you wear it. Lay the 2 edges next to each other; do not overlap. Once again we will be stitching with the needle 90 degrees to the chasm but this time we will not be going back into the old loop. Thread a tapestry needle with about 24 inches of main yarn. Starting at the toe pick up the first loop with the needle aimed at the chasm. Cross other chasm and pick up the first loop on the other side. Turn around and pick up the second loop on the same side, cross the chasm and pick up the second loop on the other side. Think: Side 1, side 2, turn; side 2, side 1, turn. 1,2 turn, 2, 1, turn. Pull just enough that the two edges meet without overlapping. SUBJECT: MK-SOCK FORMULA Here ya go, Andrea-- How to measure: When you measure around a foot to determine the number of stitches you need in a sock measure around the heel and up over the instep rather than around the ankle otheerwise the sock will be too tight. Calculate the number of stitches by multiplying your this measurment by your stitch gague. Then adjust the number so that it is divisible by 8. This is the number of stitches you cast on and a number divisible by 8 will work for ANY style sock. The cuff (rib usually) is as long as you want it to be. The Sole instep length is figured this way: Put a ruler on the floor and stand on it to measure the length of the foot. SUBTRACT 2 INCHES FROM THIS MEASUREMENT because an inch goes into the heel shaping and an inch goes into the toe shaping. Multiply the remaining number by your row gauge and that is how many rows to knit on the INstep Sole area. This formula works for all large children and adults. The -2 inches is too much for infants and small children. - -- Valli Leonard-Barnes e-mail: leonardv@agcs.com Information Systems Engineer, AG Communication Systems
 Back
to the Bond List Hints and Tips Page |
 |
 Please e-mail any comments to me at steph@stephthornton.co.uk |
Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 9th November 1999.