From: Psewknit@aol.com Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:36:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [BOND] tuck and slip stitch..?? Tuck stitch collects the unknit stitches on the needle and holds them until they are knit off in a later row. The number of stitches that can be held on the needles depends upon the yarn size, amount of weight on the fabric, and your machine. The result is a denser, heavily textured fabric. By changing colors every 2 rows or so, you can get some beautiful effects. You cannot tuck (hold) on two needles next to each other. Slip stitch leaves a strand of yarn below the needle on the purl face of the fabric. ..............Help me out here, Bonders, can you do this on a Bond, or must you drop the strand from a held stitch?............(You can have the slipped strand show on the knit face instead by lifting the stitch off the needle with a transfer tool, pulling the stitch under the strand, and re-hanging the stitch on the needle.) You can get some great textures this way using only one color. Unlike tuck (hold), you can slip on two or more adjacent needles and can use this technique for fair isle colorwork, limited only by the size of the resulting loose strand of yarn (also called a "float"). Of course, to make things confusing....these loose floats can then be picked up and re-hung on later rows to resemble the tuck stitch above! The book Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters by Susan Guagliamo (no affiliation,,,just learned A LOT from this book!) shows lots of ways to use tuck for texture and gives a good explanation of how stitches are formed by knitting machines. Hope this helps! Peggy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 01:23:49 -0500 From: Heidi Stepp (rhstepp@snowhill.com) Subject: [BOND] Slip-stitch? A slip stitch is when a stitch is not knitted but the strand of yarn is left in front of the unworked stitch instead. You can not automatically do this on the Bond with the regular keyplate because if you put certain needles in holding position, the strand of yarn will be deposited on top of those needles which is called a tuck stitch and this strand is eventually knitted back into the stitch. But you could of course lift up that strand and place it under the needle, then it would be a slip stitch. I heard that Lea-Ann has an article about slip-stitch knitting in the next MKS magazine? I was experimenting tonight and found out that you can also do slip-stitch on the Bond by using the intarsia keyplate without the yarn guide in place, she may have a different (and probably much better method). Let's say you want to slip one stitch and knit five, repeated across the row. Leave the needles that you want to slip in working position and bring all other needles to forward working position with the latches open. Lay the yarn in all the needles and knit across with the intarsia keyplate minus the yarn guide. On the next row, leave the needles next to the ones that were slipped in working position and bring out the rest of them to forward working position. Lay yarn in needles and knit across. If you repeat this for several rows you will see ridges of floats forming that are in a diagonal direction. You can make all sorts of patterns by arranging the needles that slip in different places on the bed. A checkerboard pattern could be made by leaving one stitch in working position (to be slipped), bringing the next three to forward working position, repeat across. Do this for four rows, then bring the needle that was previously slipped forward along with its neighbor on each side to forward working position (and leave the other ones in working position. It would look like this: xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x x=needles brought to forward working position - -=needles left in working position Has anyone else tried this method and is there another method that is easier for slip-stitching?? Just curious.... Heidi in Alabama rhstepp@snowhill.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 08:18:08 -0500 From: "Lea-Ann McGregor" (Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com) Subject: [BOND] seed stitch and increasing tip Hi all: While knitting the sample sweater from B.C. 21 out of Des Montes cotton, had a couple of tips to share . . . . . knit cotton yarn slower than normal as it doesn't have the elasticity to stretch over the needles. I go so slow I can feel the stitch slip down over the closed needle one by one. while doing a seed stitch conversion, I found that I needed to hang onto the edge of the knitting closest to whichever side I was working in order to keep the work pulled down and out to easily make the conversions. I like to work with my left hand in the back of the knitting and right hand in the front, and since I don't have three hands to hold the knitting out . . . . grabbed one of the big claw weights. That had enough weight to hold the knitting down and let my hands do the work . . . . really speeded up the conversion process. Also, if you have a higher table to do this at, it'll save on neck and back strain. I found that with my ribbings also. I did those on a higher table and it went much quicker and saved on pain. Second hint, the sleeve is a set in style. While doing the increases for the sleeve, I used the 2-prong transfer tool, moved two stitches out, picked up the bump of the 3rd stitch and placed it on the empty needle, hooked on a claw weight, and slowly knitted. That moves my increase in from the edge and when I seam it up, it'll be easy to find the stitches. Just wanted to share . . . . I got up early to knit this morning. One more sleeve to go and then put it all together! Onward to the next project. . . . only 6 days to go until the TKGA convention! TTYL. Lea-Ann Lea-Ann McGregor Knitting Today 6601 Pine Meadows Lane Fort Wayne, IN 46835 219-486-5248/800-426-5098 (orders) http://www.knittingtoday.com ------------------------------ From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca) When doing a crochet cast on. Loop and tie the first needle on the left hand side, hold the yarn above the needles with the latch tool below and push the latch tool up, draw the yarn through, you have just formed a stitch over the needle, do this loosely, move over to the next needle, under with latch hook catch the yarn and pull through, etc. Seed stitcher:- Great little tool:_ This is double ended to save time and incorporate the use of two stitches at the same time: 1- insert tool into loop and under first ladder. 2- push tool all the way to the back and catch the same ladder in the latch that you are holding in your hand. 3-you have now formed a stitch. 4- push tool back through stitch towards you but under the next ladder. 5- catch this stitch and pull towards you, you now have the full stitcher back in your hand again, and just inished another stitch. 6 - what you have just done is purled one and knit one You can keep repeating this all the way up or as often in the pattern as required. Great for moss stitch etc. Once you get the hang of it, it is quite easy to use. Just Linda! patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda ) http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm http://www.keyway.net/crafts/lbpats.htm ------------------------------ From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca) Subject: Shaker Lace Square All squares and techniques will use Keyplate # 3 and worsted weight yarn:- The tension will vary according to the yarns that you use so, adjust accordingly.:- Technique:- Shaker Lace - Ladder down and with latch tool in front instead of in back ladder up every 2nd ladder all the way across. Leave at least 3 - 4 stitches knitting even on the edge. Cast on 40 stitches. Knit 4 rows Knit 40 more rows. Convert to shaker lace stitch. Knit 4 rows, Cast off. Just Linda! patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda ) http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm http://www.keyway.net/crafts/lbpats.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:16:28 -0500 From: "peretz" (b4453l@uky.campus.mci.net) Subject: Re: [BOND] butterfly stitch Here goes: You knit say, 10 rows and stop COR You count over 10 stitches from the edge and push out the 10th needle, take the hand latch tool or the seed stitcher, go down six rows and insert the tool in the stitch and drop the stitch off the needle and let it ladder down to the latch tool, then you go behind all the ladders up to the top one hook it with the tool pull it down and under to the side of the knitting facing you, pull the stitch up and place it back on the needle. Then you go over 6 or 8 o 10 stitches (you decide on the pattern) and do another. You make these all the way across then knit 10 more rows and do another row of butterflies, staggering them so they fall between the ones above. So you have something like this: sssssssssO!OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Osssssssss sssO!OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Ossssssssso!Osss sssssssssO1OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Osssssssss Here the s = regular knit stitch; theO!O is the butterfly; actually the ! should be the elongated stitch made by pulling the loop down through and up again. The O's are the wings of the butterfly and the ! is the body. This is a terrible explanation, but the best I can do. OH for phonevision, I'd show you. Lee in KY ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 16:01:05 -0500 From: Ron and Donna Mardis (dmardis@kih.net) Subject: [BOND] Aleene's Blister Stitch Knit 4 R CC Cut CC Knit 6 R MY Cut MY Knit 2 R CC Bring needles forward to HP Use latch tool and insert in second R beneath MY (this would be the third R up from hem and in the CC) Unravel down to latch tool With latch tool, go up behind the rungs (this would be the front side of the sweater) Grab the top rung of ladder and pull it down to the row that latch tool is inserted in, then pull it toward you, then up in front of ladder and hook it on the empty needle. This makes a tuck. Count over 5 needles and repeat. This completes one blister. After repeating this across, move needles to FWP They stopped at this point. While she knitted 4 rows on the beginning, if I understood correctly, you only knit 2 of the CC in the actual garment. Hopefully, you experienced knitters will know what to do on the following rows. They showed a cardigan made with this stitch. The blisters are alternated on the following rows, like this: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X (X=Blister) Looks something like a honeycomb. Also said it is a good stitch for an afghan. I hope this makes sense. It really doesn't appear to be too complicated on the tape, however, this in my first attempt at instructions. Good luck, Donna in KY dmardis@kih.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:53:42 -0500 From: "Debora Morrow" (insurex@dreamscape.com) Subject: Re: [BOND] Bobbles Margie, Bobbles are easy to do. They are knit over 3 stitches and 4 rows. You take a separate piece of yarn for each bobble. Knit the 3 stitches by hand for 4 rows. Push the stitches were the bobble is to the front. Then use the transfer tool to rehang the first row of bobble stitches back onto the needles. You will have two stitches on every bobble needle. It took me about 3 tries to master it. It is really quite simple. Deb Morrow insurex@dreamscape.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 19:10:19 -0500 From: "Debora Morrow" (insurex@dreamscape.com) Subject: Re: [BOND] Technique week I tried something new, that was a little time consuming but did have nice results. I for one, get tired of the normal ribbing at the bottom of a sweater and figured I would try this next time I make a cardigan.. Hopefully I can explain this. This pattern is worked over 20 stitches. Cast on with e-wrap. Knit one row. On stitch 2, 7, 14, 19 ladder down one stitch and latch up one stitch. Row 2 - using one prong tool, put stitch 4 on 5, and 5 on 4. and stitch 16 on stitch 17 and stitch 17 on 16. Knit row. For stitches 1, 3, 6, 8, 13, 15, 18, 20 ladder down one stitch and latch up.. Row 3- Repeat row one. Row 4 - using one prong tool, put stitch 4 on 5, and 5 on 4. and stitch 16 on stitch 17 and stitch 17 on 16. Using two prong tool, place stitches 9&10 on needles 11& 12 and stitches 11&12 on needles 9&10. Knit row. For stitches 1, 3, 6, 8, 13, 15, 18, 20 ladder down one stitch and latch up.. Repeat rows 1 - 4. It really had a nice texture to it and after a little practice didn't take that long to make up. Debbie Morrow insurex@dreamscape.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 09:38:44 -0500 From: ddfcsw@webtv.net (Dale Freundlich) Subject: [BOND] Tech week Deb, thanks for the new edging. You're right, regular ribbing does sometimes get tedious. I found a hand knitting pattern for a cable rib which I found worked well on the Bond. Every third stitch is converted by laddering down in the "normal" way for a rib. Every 6th row, cross the first and second stitches making a mini cable between purl stitches. Do this across row. I did my laddering down at the same time I crossed stitches 1 & 2, 4 & 5, 7 & 8 etc. for convenience. I was pleased with the results. Dale, in snowy CNY ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 13:38:55 +0000 From: "mccrary" (mccrary@pslibm.psl.nmsu.edu) Subject: [BOND] Re: Cable look join Have the wrong side of the two pieces to be joined facing you. Start at the lower edge and with the 3-prong tool (you should have a tool that has 1 one, 2 prongs and 3 prongs (these are for lifting stitches and for crossing stitches to make cables). Take the tool with the 3 fork-like prongs and starting at the lower left side inner edge of the panel put the prongs into 3 stitches. One prong in each stitch and place on 3 machine needles. Knit 4 to 6 rows, you decide which looks better to you. Pick up three stitches from the lower right panel, one prong in each stitch and place these on the same needles and knit 4 to 6 rows. Continue up the edges of each panel. You could pick up one stitch at a time along the edge, 3 times, if you don't like using the 3-pronged tool. It just takes a "tad" longer but is maybe less awkward. panel left panel right xxxx9 9yyyy xxxx8 8yyyy xxxx7 7yyyy xxxx6 6yyyy xxxx5 5yyyy xxxx4 4yyyy xxxx3 3yyyy xxxx2 2yyyy xxxx1 1yyyy Pick up stitches 1, 2, 3 on the left first and place on 3 knitting machine needles and knit 4 rows. Pick up the stitches on the right panel (1,2, and 3) and place on top of the same needles and knit 4 rows. Pick up from the left panel stitches 4, 5, and 6 and knit 4 rows. Pick up from the right panel stithces 4, 5, and 6 and knit 4 rows. Continue up the sides of the two panels. When you pick up the last 3 stitches (or what is left) knit one row and cast off. Hope this helps, Please write again if you need more help. It is no trouble at all. Gloria mailto:mccrary@psl.nmsu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 09:12:29 -0400 From: lpelt@juno.com Subject: [BOND] Camp Iwannabethere Stitch Pattern/Technique Good Morning Campers! It's a reversible fabric that is done in two colors and does NOT curl! It is not my original idea, it was developed by Margaret Carlson and was featured in Bond magazine in Winter 1989. I made several pieces of it yesterday and it is a bit heavy for sweaters, but great for placemats, hot pads, coasters, stuff like that. Here goes: 1. Each piece is knitted twice-once on the front and once on the back. Don't remove your hem when you turn the work! 2. You must have an ODD number of stitches. 3. Work Side 2 increases and decreases a row after than on side 1. 4. If you need a specifc size, SWATCH! Side 1 Cast on an odd number of stitches with waste yarn and knit several rows. Change to main yarn (MY) and knit 1 row. Put every other stitch on waste yarn starting from second stitch from left. Put empty needles in NWP, then knit the number of rows you need. Make a not of this number lest you have too few or too many rows on the second side. Take stitches off on 6 or 7 rows of WY and remove from machine. Don't remove the hem! Side 2 Turn your work around the knit side is facing you. Transfer the stitches you put on waste yarn at the beginning of Side 1to every other needle. (You will have one less stitch than you used for Side 1) Put empty needles into NWP. The fabric you made for Side 1 will roll towards you. Using a contrast color (Or the same color if you prefer) knit 2 rows. *Using a transfer tool, pick up the floats from rows 1 & 2 of the Side 1 fabric and place on working needles. Knit 2 rows. Repeat from * until you have knitted the same number of rows as side 1. (That's why I wrote it down!) All the floats are knitted into the second side. To finish: Method 1-Take stitches off on WY Method 2-Put the stitches from Side 1 onto the empty needles and bind off or Method 3-Fill the empty needles with the Side 1 stitches and knit a few rows before binding off to have a little roll at the edge. That's it! A bit tedious with all the hand work, but a really neat finished piece! I did some new potholders using Black Sugar & Cream with a contrast of Varigated Mexicali. Really colorful and a bit like stained glass. I also did a placemat with the same yarn, but in Green and Cream. Very nice. I crocheted around the potholders, but not the placemats. Those I did the roll edge on top and bottom. For the bottom, I did an e-wrap cast on after knitting the waste yarn, then knit 6 rows before setting up for every other needle knitting. After the last row of Side 2 I put all needles into WP and put the stitches from Side 1 onto the empty needles and knit 6 rows, then bound off. Pretty neat! Hope you all enjoy this! Laura lpelt@juno.com Jacksonville, Florida ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 10:17:06 -0500 From: "Ann Yotter" (gyotter@nash.tds.net) Subject: [BOND] Knot Stitch I also tried a new st I got off the Knitsmart video. Knot stitch. I don't remember seeing it anywhere else. (That doesn't mean anything. My memory at times is like swiss cheese!) You take 2 adjacent sts off onto the tool, rotate them 360 deg and replace them. They twist tog and make a raised bump on the front. You have to bring 4 needles out into FWP to knit the row, as the sts are tight then like a cable. (You can also do the same thing leaving 1 st inbetween them. Then it is a knot st with a bar.) Of course I jumped in and started a Raspberry Bear Security Blanket using the knot st in alternating rows with lace holes, a cable up the center, shaker ribs at the sides and 3 rows of crochet cast on at each end to make them lie flat. (I never learn to do one thing at a time.) This turned out to be a lot of work. We are going to be VERY choosey about who gets this baby item! It did turn out nice. Next time I will space the knot st and lace holes a little farther apart. I was using convenient numbers on the row counter to remember and they were a little crowded. And next time on a flat object, I'm not going to convert sts next to a cable. Cindy's Cable and Diamonds afghan that I learned cables on, had a NWP needle laddering up next to the cable. The converted sts pull in the work (like ribbing). Fine if you are wearing it like a sweater to stretch it fabric out, but not for a blanket. Ann in Tenn gyotter@nash.tds.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:10:16 -0500 From: "Ann Yotter"Subject: [BOND] celtic Braid cable Hi all, The celtic braid cable that Jody referred to comes from Hand Manipulated Stitches by Guagliumi. She didn't call it that, I did, because it lookes like the intricate 4 strand braided celtic designs. I just put it down an afghan and love the look. Here is how to make it: It takes 10 sts to make and you work your crossings every 3 rows. (I tried lengthening it out some and it didn't look right.) St 1 and 10 will be converted P on either side of the cable. (On the afghan, I left them as ladders to keep from drawing up the fabric sideways. Cindy Polfer did this on her Cables and Diamonds afghan in the Bond Afghans, Pillows, and Throws Book. I tried it both ways and like them left laddered to make it lay flat. Cindy was right! Convert them on anything else, like a sweater.) To keep track of what you are doing on this, I got in the habit of crossing the first pair of sts toward the carriage each time so you always know which way to cross. The row with 2 crossings and the row with 1 crossing have to cross opposite directions. Since you knit 3 rows between crossings, the carriage position will always point you the right direction. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 First crossing row: Make a cable crossing using 2&3 with 4&5 and another using 6&7 with 8&9. Knit 3 rows. Now make a crossing using 4&5 with 6&7. Knit 3 rows. Just keep repeating these 2 instructions and a braid will develop. If you want a 3 strand braid, use 8 sts. Cross 2&3 with 4&5, knit 3 rows, then cross 4&5 with 6&7, crossing the opposite direction. 1 and 8 will be converted to set off the braid. Can you see 5 and 6 strand braids using another pair of sts for each added strand? Another hint from Cindy, I think she was the one who told me this last year. Knit 2 rows past the row you work the cable. Undo just the cable sts by putting your tools into the sts 2 rows down from the needles and unravel all the sts in the 2 rows right above them. Cross the cable sts, then work those 2 rows back by hand. This eases the strain on the needles and you don't drop sts with the carriage. No moving needles in and out of FWP. Just be sure to keep the loop of yarn from the 2 rows above out of the way while you cross and rehang the cable sts. And if you should have to stop in the middle, especially if you have to remove sts from the machine, WRITE DOWN exactly where you are. Stop at an easy to pick up spot, like "ready to knit 3 rows", or "ready to cross cables, row with x crossings, COL" Whatever. Ann in Tenn gyotter@nash.tds.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:51:22 EDT From: TIME4TAM@aol.com Subject: [BOND] ripple stich This is very time consuming for your first few projects. You will like your Bond a whole lot better if you make several small or quick projects at first to get you into the swing of things. Anyway, here are the directions that someone gave me for making a ripple panel. CO with a closed edge cast on to 25 needles. Knit 2 rows. transfer 12 stitches on the left over one needle towards the center or "0" needle. Transfer 12 stitches on the right needles over 1 stich towards the center. Now you will have three stitches on the one center needle and the last needle on each side will be empty. keep the two empty needles in working position and knit two more rows. Now repeat the above. You do this for about 260 rows and it gives you a ripple pattern. Tam in Tampa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:51:01 -0500 From: "Ann Yotter" Subject: [BOND] mock rib Mock rib is done by leaving the sts that would be the converted ones in regular ribbing in NWP and letting them ladder. When you take it off the machine, it pulls tog and looks like ribbing. Much easier to do. I haven't figured out how to eliminate the hole that forms when you go to/from it to another st that uses all the needles. The pullover in Collection #12 uses just mock rib all over. When I used mock rib for my goose sweater, I got a line of eyelet holes where I went to st st for the body of the sweater. They don't show too badly and probably would be even less noticeable if the ribbing weren't stretched out almost to its max. Maybe that is just the nature of the beast. Ann in Tenn gyotter@nash.tds.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:53:58 -0500 From: Scott and Kendel Darragh Subject: Re: [BOND] Feather & Fan The knitter making this piece (forgot her name) is using fan and feather. http://www.buttondale.com/charly.html It's FABULOUS. I have it from Knitter's Magazine #42 on pg 34. I'll try to give it to you here. Hope it works - -=knit /=transfer right stitch to next left needle and both back to right needle(handknitting: k2tog) \=transfer left stitch to next right needle and both back to left needle (handknitting: ssk) o=pull needle to fhp (handknitting: yarn over) ^= double decrease (handknitting: slip1-k2tog-pass stitch over) I will only give the pattern rows. Between each pattern row, knit 3 rows plain. - ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o---- - ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o---- - ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o---- - ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///--- - ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///--- - ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///--- B E The stitches above the letter B mark the beginning of a repeat, and the stitches above the letter E mark the end. This pattern was part of a shawl pattern and was designed to knit flat and have selvege edges, thus the extra parts before and after the B & E. I've only done this one by hand, just a bond beginner. Hope this makes sense--my first attempt at e-mailing a stitch pattern. Swatch with it, it's lovely! Have fun! Kendel darraghs@ameritech.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:54:29 -0600 (MDT) From: Ralph Shelton family Subject: [BOND] Trellis stitch I made a couple of swatches. I have "unvented" a stitch that I call the Trellis stitch (it reminds me of a garden trellis). With KP1, it seems to provide a nice, fairly stable stitch. The "trellis" stitch is made by taking the odd numbered stitches and moving them one needle to the left, K2R, then take the even numbered stitches and move them one needle to the right, K2R, repeat these four rows for the length desired. The "trellis" stitch has a bigger gauge than straight stockinette with the same key plate, and has a nice, airy, open lacy look, with about 4 stitches to the inch. Minou in UT hgtomato@earthlink.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:50:42 -0800 (PST) From: Bev Merrow Subject: [BOND] Tuck Stitch Pattern Hi Guys! A person on another MK list, confessed that they had a favorite tuck stitch, er it might be a slip stitch I get the two confused. Well I tried it out last night and I think it's fabulous too! Both sides of the knitting are usuable. The knit side looks like a bumpy rib and the pearl side looks like diamonds. Let's see if I can write clear instructions 1. pull forward 40 needles 2.cast on and knit several rows using your favorite technique 3. pull needles 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 into holding position. From now on I will refer to these as the even-numbered-needles. 4. Knit two rows 5. Push the even-numbered-needles back into forward working position (I like to be sure that the latches are open too) 6. Knit 1 row 7. Pull needles 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39 into holding position. These will be referred to as the odd-numbered-needles 8. Knit two rows 9. Push the odd-numbered-needles into forward working position (check the latches) 10. Knit one row. Repeat steps 3-10 until swatch is satisfactorily long. I'm happy at 60 rows, but you stop where you want, besides I'm still have guage problems with row counts. Bind off using your favorite technique. And look at both sides. Ahem...Beautiful texture, easy patterning.. I love it!!!!!!!!!! bev in nevada ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:19:30 -0800 From: "joe/marie" Subject: [BOND] Just discovered something really neat! I've always wanted to do huge stitches (like a size 17 handknitting needle) on my Bond, and the only way I knew how to do large stitches was to knit on every other needle. When you do this though, you get small stitches with lots of space in between each one. You can always stretch and block your garment afterwards, but somehow it never looks like a handknit garment on really large needles. I just discovered that if you knit two needles as one, it works perfect! Use two needle together, skip two needles, etc. I just briefly experimented with this last night, but let me try to explain a little. You want to have 2 needles in WP, 2 needles in NWP, 2 in WP, 2 in NWP, etc. However, the 2 needles in WP will be one stitch (one large stitch). I guess for the cast on, you can do an open edge cast on that will have to be finished somehow later on (like I said, I've only experimented briefly). ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 13:27:01 -0700 From: "Vicki and Dan" Subject: [BOND] Big stitches Hi everyone, Another way to accomplish the look of large stitches is to drop off every other stitch after knitting and let them run down to the hem bar and Voila! Of course you need to swatch to determine how many stitches to cast on and how many rows to knit. For instance if you knit 25 rows and then drop off every other stitch your length will increase to about equal to the same length as 50 rows of knitting. Hope this is fairly clear to all, Its funny how these techniques all seem so easy to us until we try to explain it without the benefit of pictures or demonstrating in person. Vicki in B.C.
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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 3rd April 2000.